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Jean
Cuisenier, Alain Ballabriga and Irad Malkin examine the ruins of
Apollo's temple in Corfu, a historic proptotype of the Phaeacians'
city.
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"It
is a West wind sent by Calypso, the zephyros, that carries Odysseus and
his craft from the remote atlantic Ogygia. The system of winds and currents
in the Ionian sea, together with the logic of navigation, contribute to
carry a shipwrecked sailor coming from western seas along the coasts of
Corfou facing the "wild sea", agrio-pelagos, the high sea that
comes from the West. …On this stubbornly rocky coast… only
three sites are accessible to a swimmer : from North to South the bay
of Aghios Gheorgios, the three beaches of Liapades and the bay of Ermones."
(Extract
from the ship's log)
Corfou, Ermones, on September 6, 2000 :
"Below, the sea roars and hits the cliff with great deaf sounds,
endlessly. From a breccia the wiew opens out, at last, boundless up to
the horizon. The large sea waters are whipped up by the bora, that strong
North wind that swelled our sails the previous days. A golden sandy beach
now appears before our eyes. There, the last waves of a regular swell
die away, broken in their run by the rocky promontory that protects the
cove below. Would it be that very beach on which the poet makes his shipwrecked
hero land in the midst of breaking waves and river swirls ?"
"We have to make great efforts today to imagine what the shore of
Ermones was like before the tourist industry took possession of it and
surrounded it with hideous buildings. But it perfectly corresponds with
Homer's description of the places where Odysseus landed and where Nausicaa
and her servants met him. It meets the nautical conditions for a crippled
embarkation and her crew to reach land in strong West wind. And, indeed,
a small river runs into it, less abundant than in the past when gardens,
orchards and olive groves covered the land built today with houses and
various constructions. Such a beach may have been used in the heroic times
as an exchange place between natives and Greek sailors returning from
expeditions in the west. Ermones may have been renowned enough to inspire
the poet the sequence of Odysseus going to meet Nausicaa. The fact is
that a path follows the course of the small river up the valley toward
Corfu. The city is not far, hardly further than Paleokastritsa from Ermones.
One can quite imagine that Nausicaa and her servants take this way to
go from the palace to the beach and back and that Odysseus follows them
from a distance, according to the princess' instructions. Then, would
the Phaeacians' city, its palace and fortress, its harbours and agoras
be located in the area of the modern Corcyra (Corfu) ? Thus, on the eastern
coast facing Thesprotia (Albania and Epirus) ? It is a place from where
one controls easily the channel used by ships travelling from the Ionian
Sea to the Adriatic Sea through the Strait of Otranto and back, sheltered
from the tempests of the wild sea. One could be tempted to think so for
good nautical reasons. And archaeological investigations … provide
the proofs that give the Phaeacian utopia its historic model".
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